Introduction

Many forums, websites, and books promise the simplest, cheapest, fastest, and most consistent way to grow mushrooms, but it can be overwhelming to navigate.

This guide’s primary objective is to present — as clearly and concisely as possible — a process that provides a balance of simplicity, consistency and yield.

This guide showcases the “monotub” method, which means you grow your mushrooms in a big plastic storage bin. If all goes well, you can expect 2+ ounces of dry mushrooms (56+ grams or 10-20 large doses).

Public enemy #1 of a successful mushroom grow is contamination, which happens when bacteria or some other fungi (e.g. mold) infiltrates your operation. Even just one speck floating around in the air can ruin a whole batch. So take your time and be deliberate with each step.

Terms of art

These are the basic concepts that you should be familiar with before starting your grow.

Spores

You should only need to do this once, since you’ll be able to capture new spores from and/or clone freshly harvested mushrooms. Buying spores for psilocybin-containing mushrooms is technically legal in most states since the spores themselves don’t contain psilocybin, but before you take action, it’s best to educate yourself on the topic by reviewing articles like this.

Mycelium

Think: roots. This is the white, spidery network that absorbs nutrients from the environment. The fruit (aka mushrooms) will grow out of it. The stronger and more desirable mycelial growth is called rhizomorphic and is thread-like in appearance. (Tomentose mycelium is more fluffy/cottony and is less desirable, though it will still work).

Inoculation

A fancy term for when you inject one thing into another where it will grow.

Liquid Culture

Sugar water into which mushroom spores have been added, which then grow into mycelium (suspended in the liquid).

Agar Plate

A petri dish with a layer of a gelatinous substance used to grow mycelium in the slightly more advanced grow process.

Colonization

The process in which the mycelium grows and overtake whatever substance it’s been introduced into.

Substrate

Think: soil. The substance that something is growing within. In this case, oats and coconut fiber.

Grain Spawn

Jars of oats that have been colonized by mycelium. You’ll “plant” the grains in “soil”, where the mushrooms will grow.

Choose your method

There are two options for the start of the process (where the spores are germinated to establish mycelium).

The first is the liquid culture method, which involves creating a liquid culture and is slightly more forgiving (but harder to identify contaminants).

The second is the agar method, which involves creating a culture on agar plates and is slightly more complex (but easier to identify contaminants and isolate strong mycelial growth). Agar plates are also valuable for more advanced techniques like cloning.

Most experienced growers recommend starting with the liquid culture method, but if you’re feeling ambitious it’s certainly possible to get going with agar right away.‍‍

Gearing up

The initial equipment cost should be around $250 (less if you already have some of these lying around), but once you’re up and running the cost for each subsequent grow is less than $10.

Necessary Equipment

Spore Syringe (1)

You should only need to do this once, since you’ll be able to capture new spores from and/or clone freshly harvested mushrooms. Buying spores for psilocybin-containing mushrooms is technically legal in most states since the spores themselves don’t contain psilocybin, but better safe than sorry.

• Download and install the Tor browser (hyper-private browsing)
• Open Tor and visit Premium Spores to get your research materials
         a. Use bitcoin, ether or other crypto for added security
• Wait patiently for arrival

Mason Jars (6)

We prefer the 32oz wide mouth variety since you’ll only need five or six for the whole grow, instead of a dozen or more of the smaller ones. Regardless of which size you use, make sure they are the widemouth variety, otherwise it can be difficult to get the contents out.

Mason Jar Lids w/Injection ports (6)

These allow you to minimize the risk of contamination by injecting the liquid culture into the grain jar without removing the lid. For better or for worse, you can buy them most easily on Amazon (if you buy elsewhere, make sure to get the 90mm widemouth variety).

Kitchen Scale (1)

You’ll often need to measure stuff out by volume. No need to get super fancy, but good to have precision up to one tenth of one gram for weighing the actual mushrooms later on. The wirecutter presents some good options.

Instant Pot/15psi Pressure Cooker (1)

This is needed to sterilize the grain. The reason you can’t use an oven is that the water in the grain will boil out at 212°F and you need it to get up to 250°F to properly sterilize. The higher pressure (15psi) raises the boiling point of water so the grains can get up to temp without the water boiling out. The 8qt version will fit three 32oz jars at a time.

Large Stock Pot and Colander (1)

For boiling and draining oats. You might already have these.

Spray Bottles (2)

You’ll use these for sterilizing things with alcohol and misting your tub with water.

70% Isopropyl Alcohol (at least 16oz)

For sterilization of your equipment and yourself.

Latex Gloves (at least 10)

Keeps your skin from falling into the mix.

Face Mask (1)

Keeps your toxic breath from contaminating everything.

Whole Oats (at least 5lbs)

The mycelium will colonize the jars of hydrated, sterilized oats. They’re cheap and you can get them at hardware or garden stores. One grower mentions they found a 50lbs.-bag at a Tractor Supply store.

Coconut Coir (at least one ~600g brick)

This is the “soil” that you’ll use in the final step. Again, cheap and available at hardware or garden stores. Note: some people have reported quality issues with certain brands that are processed with salt water or other minerals that can kill the fruit. We’ve had success with the Burpee brick linked to above. If you go with a different brand, do some Googling beforehand.

Plastic Storage Bin (2)

You’ll need a clean environment to transfer the colonized grains into freshly sterilized grain jars (this is how you’ll create more spawn once the first jar is ready). This is simply a storage bin with holes cut in the side. This is better than a glove box, which actually encourages air currents within because it’s airtight, increasing the risk of contamination.

The second one is for the last stage, where the colonized grain is mixed in with the coconut coir (“soil”). This 54qt one is a good choice. Make sure to get one that leaves some room for air flow when placing the lid on upside down.

5 Gallon Insulated Cooler (1)

You’ll use this to hydrate and pasteurize the coconut coir (“soil”) in the final step. Something like this will do fine.

Liquid culture method only

Magnetic Stir Bar & Stir Plate (1 of each)

As the liquid culture develops, you’ll need a way to break up the clumps of mycelium and oxygenate the water. A magnetic stir bar goes in the mason jar with the honey water, and the stir plate is how you get it spinning. (It’s also not difficult to make your own stir plate out of a cigar box and computer fan if you like to tinker.)

Syringes (3)

You’ll use these to transfer the liquid culture to the jars of oats. These are a good choice, since they can be sterilized and reused multiple times.

Agar method only

Prepoured Agar Plates (3+)

These allow you to select the strongest, contaminant-free mycelium to inoculate your grain spawn. You’ll inject a bit of the spore solution on the plate and transfer the resulting mycelium to your “grain mother” jar. These are a good choice, since Potato Dextrose Agar is generally accepted as a great medium for cultivating fungi.

Parafilm (1)

This is an elastic, waxy tape that you’ll use to seal your agar plates after inoculation. You won’t need a ton of it, so one box should last quite a while.

Scalpel (1)

You’ll use this to cut and transfer a small slice of colonized mycelium from the agar plate to the grain jar. One of these should do the trick.

Optional

Mini Greenhouse (1)

Mushrooms grow best between 65°F and 80°F. If you don’t have space with a consistent temp, it might be worth investing in one of these and a small electric heater w/ thermostat. This isn’t crucial, but can help speed up the mycelial growth, which reduces the risk of contamination.

Fluorescent Light (1)

Helpful for the fruiting stage if you don’t have a space with natural light. A T8 6500k bulb will work.

Dehydrator (1)

This can help ensure your mushrooms are fully dehydrated before using or freezing. Especially useful if you live in a humid environment. You don’t want mushrooms that still have moisture sitting out for days at a time (or even stored in the freezer, for that matter). Something like this should work well.

Mushroom Life Cycle

We find it helps to understand upfront how each step of the grow process corresponds with the circle of fungal life.

1 – Liquid Culture/Agar Inoculation
You’ll have spores (suspended in water in a syringe) that you’ll inject into honey water.

2 – Liquid Culture/Agar Colonization
The spores will germinate in the honey water and start to form a cloudy white network of mycelium. As they grow they’ll consume the sugars and the water will become clearer.

3a – Grain Spawn
Again using a syringe, you’ll transfer a small amount of the mycelium suspension from the honey water to a jar of oats. The mycelium will consume the sugars in the oats and expand until the entire jar is filled with their white web. This is your “spawn.”

3b – Substrate Colonization
Same process but this time you’ll “plant” the colonized oats in a substrate of coconut fiber (the “soil”), and the mycelium will slowly colonize the entire substrate.

4 – Pinning
After a couple weeks, tiny little primordial mushroom pins will start to pop up, signaling the fruiting phase.

5 – Fruiting
The final step where the pins turn into fully-fledged mushrooms. You’ll mostly just be watching at this point until they’re fully grown and ready to harvest.

Preparation

Still Air Box Prep

Before doing any work inside your still air box, you’ll need to prep it to minimize the risk of contamination.‍‍

‍Note: whenever you’re using alcohol to sterilize a surface or implement, give it a minute to evaporate before proceeding. A good amount of sterilization happens during the evaporation phase.‍

Materials:

• Still Air Box
• Small bowl of soapy water
• Spray bottle w/alcohol
• Latex gloves
• Face mask
• Paper towels

Step 1

Put on your Personal Protective Equipment (including wearing a clean shirt!).

Step 2

Spray all inner surfaces of the bin with alcohol (including the lid), and wipe down with a paper towel.

Step 3

Wet a paper towel with soapy water and rub down all inner surfaces with a thin layer of soapy water (except for the lid, which can drip down). This will encourage particulates to stick to the bottom and sides rather than float into unwanted places.